|
First, always clean the lint filter between loads. On those with
filters just inside the door opening also clean out occasionally
the area into which the filter is inserted as far as you can to
remove at least some of the lint that has gotten past the filter.
These include most brands other than most Kenmore and Whirlpool
models, and most Maytags. Always replace a torn filter
immediately. Also twice a year disconnect the vent hose and clean
out the entire vent system. This is especially important if the
vent hose goes into an interior wall and up to the roof or makes
a long and/or multi-bend path to the outside. Metal vent tubing
is better than plastic and shorter and straighter is also more
trouble free. Dryer fans never were designed to push the lint-
laden exhaust great distances or up to 1st or even 2nd story
roofs. While disconnected also reach into the vent pipe on the
dryer itself and pull out any accessible lint.
|
Advertisement
Contact me to place your ad here
|
Opening up the dryer cabinet and removing all interior lint,
especially around the motor itself will prevent eventual
overheating requiring motor replacement. This should be done at
least once a year and will also minimize the possibility of lint
catching on fire inside the dryer. Each brand varies
greatly in cabinet design and access.
While you have the machine apart always check the belt for
cracking and wear indicating a need for replacement. If you do
need to replace it be very careful to note the belt path around
the idler pulley/tension device and the motor shaft. On recent
Westinghouse Consolidated Industry models(Frigidaire, Kelvinator,
Westinghouse,etc) check that the "pushnut" which secures the
idler pulley to its shaft is firmly in place, they tend to work
their way loose. On GE/Hotpoint/JC Penney models with the heating
coils in a large circle behind the drum the cover on the rear of
the drum tend to collect lint, as does the area inside the door
which is above the filter when the door is closed. Late model
Kenmores and Whirlpools with a filter inside the door opening
have a removable panel on the front of the duct into which the
filter is placed. Clean inside there.
Also on the GE etc. models the rear drum bushing can be greased
while the drum is out for lint removal and the nylon support
glides attached to the inside of the dryer front can be checked
for wear and replaced as necessary. The nylon can be replaced by
itself for less than replacing the entire metal assembly to which
it is riveted.
On all the top-filter Kenmore and Whirlpool models there a 2
rubber rollers supporting the rear of the drum which should be
lubricated lightly with white lithium grease in the shaft/bushing
area, or replaced if sloppy on the shaft or "flat-spotted", which
causes a thumping noise when the drum turns. Also remove and
lubricate the idler pulley on it's shaft with a light machine oil
like "3-in-1" or with turbine oil. (Local appliance parts stores carry
the belts, rollers, glides and lubricants you may need.)
Dryers are pretty simple machines which, for many brands, with
minor maintenance can be kept working for years. Even when
malfunctioning, diagnosis and repair is usually neither difficult
nor expensive. Replacing motors or timers tend to be the most
expensive and, if you keep lint off the motor, most will last a
long time.
If you notice a
significant change in the way your dryer works or sounds,
investigate promptly. Inexpensive fixes can quickly become
expensive major problems if ignored. "If I ignore it maybe it
will go away" is rarely wise thinking.
